Steph Goes Solo in Kenya
And let the church say…AMEN! Exploring on a traditional dhow
Hey friends! Welcome to my series “Steph Goes Solo” where I discuss all things solo travel and recount my solo travel experiences!
In this post, I’m sharing my solo travel experience in the wonderful country of Kenya. It’s an East African powerhouse, home to the bustling city of Nairobi, the clear water and sandy coastline of Diani Beach, the robust wildlife throughout, and home to the famous, Maasai Mara tribe. In January last year, I traveled to Kenya to explore Nairobi and Diani beach, on the third leg of my multi-country tour in Africa. after traveling from Ghana and Nigeria. Kenya provided me the peace, fun, adventure, luxury, and solitude I wasn’t expecting, but very much enjoyed!
As someone who has traveled solo before, I’ve never traveled solo to an African country. I thought to myself that it should be like traveling to anywhere else in the world right? Heeehh! *sucks teeth* I would love to lie and say yes, but there are so many nuances that come with traveling to countries in Africa, that you don’t have to deal with in other parts of the world. There are visas, immunizations, data availability concerns, cash vs mobile banking transfers, clothing attire, how women are viewed and so on, It takes a somewhat experienced traveler, I think, to be comfortable with traveling solo to an African country. But where there’s a will, there’s a way, and hopefully my experience will be helpful to you if you’re considering traveling solo to an African country!
Below I share my thoughts and advice, some that are unique to my experience but most are broad and can be applicable to anyone traveling to Kenya, solo or not. Hopefully you’re able to grab a gem or several from this post for your next travel to Kenya or elsewhere!
Visa-free entry?
Only in the name. Kenya switched from requiring a Kenya Travel Visa to going “visa free” for all countries. However, you are required to fill outa a Kenya Travel Authorization, which takes up to 72hrs to receive and costs. If you’re thinking this sounds like a regular visa and the switch was unnecessary, then you and I are on the same page! Either way, make sure you apply for it in time!
The KINDEST People on Earth
Rude and Kenyan don’t belong in the same sentence! I don’t think I’ve met a rude Kenyan prior to visiting, and that was so much more apparent when I was there. Soft spoken, gentle, helpful, and just undoutably kind.
Ubers
You don’t know where you’re going and neither do they! I quite frankly thought Ubers in Accra were the worst, but Nairobi drivers had me very confused. The estimated wait times were frequently double than what was shown due to the driver being lost. Drivers would ask people on the street for directions and drivers almost always asked ahead of time where I was going, after I was in the car.
Nairobi is a hub were most people come to work, and eventually settle, so I get that most people may not know their way around. And don’t get me started on the tolls/ETC, Kenya’s version of an automatic toll fee reader that is connected to an account. If you’re in a rush, such as heading to the airport, ask ahead if they have ETC, because if not and there’s traffic, your ride time could easily be doubled.
A Little Too Calm
I have two things working against me: Nigerian and growing up in northern New Jersey, making my baseline temperament testy and inpatient. It’s the same way NYers get mad at tourists for walking too slow on a busy street. Kenyans are very calm, and I found myself a little irritable at times. Not all will relate, but I know my people are out there and you are forewarned.
Asking All the Questions
Who are you here with? Are you traveling alone? Where are you staying? Are you engaged/married?
This applies to the broader nuances of being a solo, female traveler and I get it, but boundaries. This is where common sense isn’t so common with some people because as a solo, female traveler, you asking me these questions, thinking I would actually tell you, a stranger, is actually WILD. During this trip, when I didn’t want the unwanted inquiries, I wore a ring on my ring finger, and trust me, the approaches were different and slow to come.
Amani Luxury Apartments in Diani Beach
Stays
I have evolved from a budget traveler in my early days to a bougie/budget savvy traveler now. Meaning, I enjoy luxury hotels and airbnbs, either with but often without a luxury price tag, conversation for another day on how I do that. But if I’m solo I tend to skip out on ultra luxurious stays for most or all of my travels because the math don’t be mathin. It' doesn’t mean I suffer ooo, I’m just not staying at the Four Seasons in Orlando (iyky lol). I’d rather spend my money on experiences and shopping for local goods.
Nairobi: I stayed at Best Western Westlands, in the Westlands neighborhood. The room was spacious, clean, and the booking came with free breakfast. Plus, it was centrally located, right next to the mall.
Diani Beach: I stayed at Amani Luxury Apartments. Me and apartment style hotels go together, real bad! It’s just a short drive to the beach.
Single as a Dollar Bill
…and you hope that dollar stretches! Let’s not gloss over the fact that solo travel costs more on average, simply because everything is on you. Transparently, I spent a whopping $5.5k on a 2 week solo trip to Japan. Other factors contributed to the total being that high but ultimately, However, in Kenya the conversion from USD to Kenyan Shillings was pretty decent (1 USD to 0.0077 KES), allowing me to do more with less. Hotels that would cost over $300 per night were more than half that, in a good area, with free breakfast!
My Space
Solo traveling is truly something most people should try, at least once in their life. It’s great to follow your own path, meet people on your own accord, and do things you actually want to do. But if there’s ONE THING (it’s just one thing, that got me trippin) that will happen to you while solo traveling, is that people will try you. I love connecting with locals and travelers abroad but if you know Africans, knowingly or unknowingly, offensive comments will be made and boundaries will try to be crossed. In the event, be firm and assertive about what you do and don’t accept, and be vocal about it, in a respectful way.
It’s All Fun Until It’s Not
Talking about alcohol here but you can apply it to the likes of any recreational substance, if that’s your thing. Let’s not act like people don’t dabble in the things. If you do, general rule while traveling is to proceed with caution, always! I’ve moved a little senselessly in the past, being young and drunk, and there were times and situations that could have not gone in my favor, borderline dangerous. But we thank God for safety. Seriously though, pay attention and don’t be reckless. Watch your drinks being made, finish your drink/take it with you rather than leaving it unattended, and trust your gut when people or places have you uneasy. Trying to save you all from the unnecessary “live and learn” portion of traveling.
Home Plugs to the Rescue
Story time: I was almost stranded in JoBurg, South Africa, on my way to Kenya! I traveled from NYC to Accra, Accra to Lagos and was finally headed to my last destination, Kenya, on my 3 week Detty December shenanigans. But guess who didn’t have a visa for Kenya…this girl! Why didn’t I have one? Well, I actually started one but at the time I was traveling, the president of Kenya announced that Kenya would be visa-free, without a structured plan in place. However, he then proceeded to introduce a new travel authorization (basically the similar to the visa) 3 days before I was headed to Nairobi.
After a few tears and a phone call to my bestie in Jersey, I was able to pay and submit my visa application! It came through within 30 minutes and I was able to check in. Others at the airport were in the same predicament. Very close call.
Moral of the story: make sure you have a reliable plug/emergency contact back home.
Local Connect
Airbnb experiences, Get Your Guide, other sites dedicated to connecting locals with tourists, and even on the ground connections are a great way to see and learn about a destination, firsthand. It’s a great way to support tourism, on a personal level, because the revenue goes directly into the hands of locals. The guides are usually friendly, professional, and know their way around an iPhone camera. The pictures directly above were taken by my guide I booked through a Nairobi city tour! Most people will prefer communication via WhatsApp, just keep that in mind if you don’t use the app on the regular.
Data
I have a bone to pick with T-mobile! I have a global phone plan, which allows me data and roaming out of the U.S. in most places I travel to. But for some reason, Nairobi wanted only problems and no peace! I usually travel with two phones: my regular iPhone and an unlocked iPhone or my iPad (because I’ve had my phone stolen twice while traveling). Having an unlocked phone allows you the flexibility to get a local sim. No data or very slow data is hell while traveling. Nowadays, there are more options for e-sim capability, so if you don’t have a global plan or it’s expensive, I would look into e-sims.
Airalo, is an e-sim company that I’ve seen others use (not a sponsor).
Bars
You get drinks as is on the menu. Trying to explain otherwise, will be more of a headache than I promise you are ready for.
Standing Out
A solo female traveler, more specifically, a solo black female traveler, isn’t the norm, especially when it comes to traveling in Africa. Usually it’s white men, families, young and old couples, single guys or friend groups. When people saw me dining alone or out in public alone, I got some stares. I didn’t mind it. I usually don’t disclose that I’m solo while I’m traveling, unless I feel safe but still probably won’t.
If you think people are staring at you, you’re probably right!
Alloy Bar
Ultimately, Kenya is a wonderful and safe place to visit, especially for solo female travel and I can’t wait to go back! Some cheeky nuances listed above but ultimately, Kenya is filled with many cultural and wildlife experiences, the kindest people, and amazing dining. Hope you enjoyed the read, don’t forget to like, comment and share!
